Uomo Barber Victoria Blog

Recently, the Beauty Council asked me some very important questions about shaving and the workshops I teach:
The origin of the word barber is the latin word ‘barbam’ which means beard.  Traditionally, barbers have been ambassadors of fine gentlemen’s grooming.  This includes straight razor shaving.  As a modern barber, I find great pride in being able to offer this service.  It is the fulfillment of an ancient craft that has been passed on for centuries.1) What do you like about straight razor shaving?

• From a more hands on perspective, I truly enjoy being the instrument of men’s grooming.  As a modernist barber, I really enjoy showing men how truly indulging and relaxing a fine straight razor shave is.  Pampering is for everyone, and a straight razor shave is a uniquely masculine opportunity to be pampered. I also really enjoy educating beauty professionals how to train their male clientele in proper shaving practices.  Men often suffer from bad shaving practices, and it is extremely rewarding when a client comes to me and says “Steve, you’ve really helped me improve my shave. Thank you”.

2) What are the benefits of straight razor shaving compared to others like the safety razors?

• There is a real reason why the straight razor was replaced by the safety razor.  The safety razor is much easier to wield, anyone can do it, and but it cannot produce as close of a shave as a straight razor.  With the straight razor, the practitioner is able to adjust the angle of the blade. This allows for more control and a closer shave.   Another big benefit of the straight razor is that it has a minimal impact on the environment.  With a fixed blade straight razor, there is no metal or plastic waste whatsoever.  Modern safety razors, and cartridge razors, are usually throw away products which end up in a landfill somewhere.  Less waste is best.

3) What was it like apprenticing under Pasquale Giordano?

• Pasquale was like a father to me.  He took me under his wing, despite my flaws, and trained me into the barber that I am today.  He was by far the best teacher I ever had.  No one could match the closeness of his shaves, and I have had shaves all over the world.  He was a gentleman with kind patience.  But he also had Italian passion, which really inspired me to seek perfection in my work.  His criticism was hard to take, and my ego was often to big to take it. But any student who is the presence of a master must swallow his pride, and take the lessons given if they are to grow.

4) What steps would you recommend for someone looking to learn about straight razor shaving?

• Practice. Practice. Practice.  Straight razor shaving is a perfect art, which is never perfected.  Even after a decade of shaving, my touch continues to improve and become more adept.  Pasquale had over 50 years of shaving experience.  His touch was impeccable.  This can only be achieved by lots and lots of practice.  Start with yourself (ladies, try your legs).  When you feel comfortable enough shaving yourself, ask some friends.  Seek perfection, even if it is ever elusive.

5) What pre-requisites or skills (if any) should someone have prior to getting into straight razor shaving?

• Anyone wishing to learn straight razor shaving must have very good hand to eye coordination, and a very gentle touch.  A strong understanding of integumentary system is also imperative.  Shaving requires a solid knowledge of skin and the different types of skin.

6) What is the price range for straight razors? What are your recommended brands?

• Straight razors vary in price ranges.  It all depends on how much you really want to spend.  On the low end, $5 will get you a very low quality, beginners disposable straight razor.  On the high end, $350 can get you a Teflon coated Jatai straight razor. Personally, I use and sell the Parker SR1 or SR2, which will cost around $25.  The Dovo Shavette is also a great choice, but its plastic blade holder limits its use in a public setting, as it is difficult to fully sterilized it. It retails at around $50.

7) How should you maintain your straight razor? How should they be stored?

• If you are using a fixed blade straight razor (not for public use) you should store the razor in a dry environment, and coat it with a thin layer of shaving oil.  This helps to prevent oxidation of the blade and keeps its edge sharper for a longer period of time. If you are using a disposable straight razor, then it is important to dispose of the used blade in a Bioharzard Sharps Container, and sterilize the razor in a strong sterilizer.  This is the preferred choice for public use because the razor’s hygiene can be guaranteed.

8) What supplies (i.e. soap, brush, mirror, etc.) would you recommend to accompany a straight razor shave service?

• Shaving as a service is a great opportunity to up-sale your clients with a variety of men’s grooming products.  The first thing a man will need is a good badger brush.  These vary in price, but a good mid-range brush that should last several years would cost around $50.  In terms of shaving products, many people don’t know this, but I have developed my own brand of shaving products called OM. I created this because I truly love what I do, and I wanted to bring a product to the market that was made in BC, respects the environment, and addresses the needs of men’s skin. Part of my line includes a pre-shaving lubricant which helps to prepare the skin for the shaving process and make shaving more comfortable.  I have also designed a lye-free shaving cream (this took me six years to develop). Lye can be very harsh on skin, so this cream is great for sensitive skin.  To finish of the shaving process, I also recommend an alcohol free aftershave splash to soothe and rehydrate the skin. Finally, an aftershave balm helps to restore moisture and make future shaving much more comfortable.

9) Do you have any quick tips you can share for someone starting to do straight razor shaving (i.e. before, during and after the shave)?

• The best advice I can offer is to use the “Four T’s of Shaving”: Technique, Touch, Tension and Tempo.  I cover these in my workshops, and they are the foundation of a good straight razor shave. They are a checklist that every shaver uses, and they ensure the comfort of your client. Also, I would recommend that you get as much practice as possible, and explore different techniques.  Talk to other barbers who shave, and exchange ideas and advice. It is important that as professionals we talk to each other and continue to pursue perfection in our craft.